Día 3 · Viernes

Coastlines and Curves

We slept in a bit this morning and then headed out to the coast. We keep seeing signs for Castelló d’Empúries and decided to make a detour. It’s a medieval town that began in the 8th century. It’s only about 5 minutes off the main road. We enter into the town and there’s people everywhere, seems like a festival is happening today. We’re looking for parking and following signs for the town and the festival. Signage is not the best here. Quickly realizing we may not be able to park, we decide a window tour is good. And then we’re in the middle of this ancient city with the walls closing in on the car. There are multiple places in surprised our small vehicle makes it through. It’s hysterical and we enjoy the laugh on the way back to the main road. As we come over the coastal mountains, we can see the Mediterranean as we pass through the switchbacks. It’s gorgeous.

We park and walk into town. We have a reservation at Compartir at 13:30. Stop for a quick beer at La Sal Cadaqués on the main rocky beach. At Compartir, it’s a cozy beach hut of a restaurant. No seating inside but the outside tables feel inviting and secluded. We expected to get the tasting menu at this Michelin starred restaurant. We did not expect to to be 13 courses for lunch. All of it was amazing. Fantastic fresh sardines, a tuna cannoli, and a savory play on a traditional Catalonian dish Mato. Flavors and textures I’ve never experienced before. Well worth it!

Needing a walk after that meal, we checked out the town and found the Santa Maria cathedral on a high hill. The alter is elaborate and beautiful, spanning two full stories. Afterwards, we made our way down to the rock beach and put our feet in the Mediterranean. The water was quite cold and with the overcast sky, no way I’m going swimming. The whole town looks like Greece, bright, white buildings cut into the rolling hills into the water. The streets are all long, small rocks wedged into the ground long ago. And hilly.

Dali’s long time home is here in Cadaqués and we trekked over there. Unable to get into the interior museum, we bought passes for the gardens instead. There’s quite a bit of land here with wild sculptures from the madman.

Though we planned to drive out to Cap de Creus, parking here is a serious issue. We find out that the only road to the cape is closed during the day. The only access is by bus, bike, or foot for the five kilometers. We are worn out from the hills of Cadaqués and Lligat. We opt to drive back to Girona and save my legs for racing tomorrow.

Back in town Mike finds us a cozy Italian restaurant. We split risotto and tagliatelle. It’s a great carb ending to the day. Off for a good nights sleep before crushing tomorrow’s race!

Step count: 10740