Day 8 · Thursday

Quick breakfast then said goodbye to Luis and Margarita. We headed back to Parque Nacional Queulat for the short hike to the boat ride. Once again, we crossed the wild suspension bridge, which only allows four people at a time, and made our way up to the overlook. Clouds hung low in the mountains, sometimes completely obscuring the glacier from view.

We hopped into a zodiac to cross the lake, and as we got closer, more and more waterfalls came into view. The driver explained that all of them come from the glacier—an astonishing 22,000 hectares in size. The scale was absolutely mind-boggling.

When we finally reached the other side, we noticed a river flowing into the lake. The guide told us that there used to be another lake behind the ridge ahead. A rockslide a few years ago destroyed it, and now the waterfalls cascade down as a river into the lower lake, which continues on as the river below.

I’m glad we came back for the boat ride. It was nice to see the view from the longer hike yesterday. Also, yesterday was much more clear. The up close view has a different quality with the low clouds.

We’re off again, heading north to try the hot springs—and this time, they’re open! There are three hot pools and an access point to the tidal river/lake. The pools are perfectly warm for me, while the lake is stunningly cold. The contrast is exhilarating.

We meet a couple originally from Bristol who have spent the last several years in Australia. They’re on a year-long sabbatical before moving back to the UK. It’s always striking how much better the rest of the world seems to travel than we do. I’ve lost count of how many people are surprised by our 10-day adventure compared to their one-, three-, or even twelve-month journeys.

It’s time to head south now, back to Coyhaique. Our Patagonian adventure is nearing its end. We gawk at the scenery as it shifts over dozens of kilometers. Driving along Ruta 7, we pass through low clouds in the mountains. On the other side, the sun breaks through again, and the purple fields reappear as we descend into the lower valleys. It’s still incredible to see field after field of them.

In Coyhaique, we find a charming boutique hotel overlooking the river and mountains. A delicious dinner at Casa Adobe, just across the street, and a fantastic hot shower leave us ready for bed. We’ve got an early flight tomorrow.