Cathedral, Embassies, Pizza, and Cuba
Saturday turned out to be crazy busy. So much to do, and so many steps to get
Saturday, May 13
As if Saturday would not have enough items on the calendar, I started the day with an erg test for the team in Atlanta. I knew it was coming. I would rather have done it earlier in the week, but I needed sleep to make a good time. Not my best, but beat my last test in February, so we're moving in the right direction. Nothing like a race-pace 1k on the erg to get ready for an exciting day.
We started our adventure with a very long bike ride to Washington National Cathedral. Over five miles later, we arrived at the towering gothic church. The facade reminds me of a church I visited in Milan, Italy long ago, il Duomo di Milano. While the one in Milan is obviously older, the church here has plenty of gothic spires and is a nice homage to medieval churches.
If the building is stunningly beautiful outside, it is breathtakingly big and gorgeous once inside the main hall. Enormous. The sixth largest church in the world. They do not build small things here in DC. Literally a tenth of a mile long down the center. There are amazing stained-glass pieces everywhere. The craftsmanship and style make you forget that it was only completed a few decades ago. We both thought the night before that we would be there for thirty minutes or so. Another beautiful church. We've been through Europe, we know how this goes.
We spent much more time here, however. The audio tour was a wealth of information, along with the guides inside who were of course welcoming and charming. We saw Woodrow Wilson's crypt. Hellen Keller is laid to rest here. This is an phenomenal work of art and architecture overlooking the city. We wanted to see it last year but could not fit it in. I'm really glad we were able to get here this time.
EU Embassy Day
Today is the European Union open embassy tour. Last year we were able to see the world tour, including Bolivia, South Africa, and Nepal and got to taste drinks and food from those countries. Most of the embassies were on Massachussets on the way back downtown from the Cathedral. We had a few on our list including Italy. There was a list of participating embassies with what they offered on site. Italy was offering pizza. Well that pizza must have been stellar, as the line to get in was over an hour long. We walked passed and up the hill to Denmark. No line, we grabbed a couple beers and met the Danish Defense Attaché. We learned a bit about Denmark and Greenland and had a good time with the Danes. Off we went in search of the rest of Europe.
Even for a rainy Saturday, there were well more people out for the tours than last year. Every country had hour plus long wait times. We made our way along stopping where we could but unwilling to stand around in the rain for that long. I've been to a lot of these countries and waited less time to get into the real thing. We saw some dancers in Ireland and a great band in Croatia. We found a bazaar sale at a mosque put on by the Muslim Women's Association. There were lots of jewelry and tea sets, but I was hungry. I found what looked like kibbe but wasn't able to get through the crowd to find out for sure. I did pick up some delicious cookies for later. As we journeyed down Massachussets, we found statues of Ghandi and Churchill among others. Feeling lunchy, I saw that Boogy & Peel was just ahead in Dupont Circle. This pizza place was recommended someone who works with Mike. Big thanks, Thomas! This was a fantastic find!
We came in rushed and wet from the rain and in dire need of provisions after miles and miles of walking. We ordered beers, a simple pizza, and a salad that just jumped out at me. Mike grabbed us a seat at the bar in front of the brick oven. We love to chat with staff, so we're talking to a woman making pizzas and asking about the brilliant mix of ingredients she's topping a pie with. She explains about an Italian Sub pizza that we did not see in our hurried ordering. She offers to change ours and upgrade us to the fancy pizza. Oh, wow, thanks so much! We'd love to try it. After ordering a couple more beers, another employee brings us piña colada and dreamsicle frozen cocktails. We are winning. Turns out the woman we've been chatting with is the owner Rachel, and it's their one year anniversary.
This pizza is superb. Crispy crust on the bottom but really chewy still and this Italian Sub idea was the best. Mike asks about other restaurants and before we know it the whole staff is spouting off all the best places to go on the north side of DC. Rachel makes a list for us. We will have to go on a food tour.
We make a plan to keep moving and take off with bellies full of pizza and beer. Thanks, Boogy & Peel! We will be back. If you're in DC, I'm not kidding, this pizza is delicious! I found a life size Lite Brite at a bar down the way and we go pick up bikes for points and head towards Thomas Circle. It's a bar inside the Hotel Zena, the only feminist hotel I've ever seen in my life. This place is womanly wonderful. Ruth Bader Ginsberg on the wall, hooks under every seat at the bar, and there's the giant Lite Brite! Unfortunately, the bar isn't open for a while, so I will have to come back here another day.
Heading back south we see the Renwick is still open for a bit, and we rush to go see one of my favorite artworks, Volume by Leo Villareal. We saw it on our last day in town in 2022. The piece is a ten by twenty foot chandelier of long pieces of metal and LED lights set to a pattern that will never repeat. We only have about twenty minutes till closing when we arrive, and I spend most of that staring at the LEDs. It's enthralling, and I love it. There is a new installation in the room next door that reminds me of the Northern Lights. The entire room is the piece including the carpet on the floor. People are laying around the space looking up at the brilliant colors above.
Time is up and outside we find a fifteen point bike ride that gets us to the American Art Museum, so we see what's new inside. Melanie had mentioned there was a new Lincoln in the Portrait Gallery here. The work is nine feet tall. They also have casts of his face and hands from before his Presidency and just before his assassination. You can see how much he ages in such a short period. We also revisit Undine a sculpture by Chauncy Bradley Ives. A woman is wrapped in gauzy material. The light texture of the fabric is incredibly detailed. It's the most delicate sculpture I've ever seen. From behind you can actually see light through the thin places in the marble.
We shut down our second museum of the day, and head outside into the clearing evening. Walking around looking for a drink, we stumble into Cuba Libre intending to get a snack before we head home. You know how snacks go for us, though. We get some great Colombian beers and find a pork shoulder and belly plate for two. That's fine we'll eat dinner here and enjoy a leisurely ride home. Wow! The pig comes with a show! We can smell the sparkler in the room and turn around to find it is our dinner lit up like Fourth of July headed towards the bar. Our bar neighbors are intrigued, surprised, and jealous I'm certain. The meat is delectable but honestly this is the best beans and rice I've ever had. And the tostones! Mmmmmm.
Pennsylvania is our road home with my favorite view of the city. We are completely exhausted when we get home. A very full day (several miles on the bike and 25k+ steps each), but worth it. We met so many enjoyable people today. Their hospitality is much appreciated. Sunday's story tomorrow. All this talk of food has me hoping for leftovers in the fridge!